Autumn Walks in South Wales

Autumn is undoubtedly the best season for country walks.  Perhaps it's the quality of the light, the absence of crowds or the promise of nature's hedgerow harvest.  And it's not only the colours that are mellower: people seem friendlier and the pubs and cafes seem cosier.  

But most of all, the dying days of summer lend a wistful retrospection that I find so conducive to appreciating landscape.  Like tunes, I find that the best walks are in the minor key.

So it was my good luck that last week's visit to South Wales gave me an opportunity to further my quest to walk every section of the National Trust's 200 miles of Welsh coast.  And appropriately enough, both of them are featured in our Great Welsh Walk, which runs until the end of October.

The view of the secluded cove of Pwll Du, on Gower's south coast

The first walk, which takes you past this wonderful viewpoint to the hidden cove of Pwll Du on Gower's south coast, rewarded me with a glimpse of a kingfisher - darting up the stream in Pwll Du Wood - and gave amazing views of the south Wales coast as far as Porthcawl to the east and north Somerset and Lundy to the south.

Video clip of my description of the Pennard to Pwll Du walk:

The second walk was in Pembrokeshire's wonderful Cleddau woods, near the picturesque village of Lawrenny.  This walk had the benefit of starting and finishing at one of the cosiest of cosy autumn cafes, the Quayside Tearoom at Lawrenny Quay.  I had been told that it was one of the best in the county, and I was not disappointed.

The perfect combination: Lawrenny woodland walk and afternoon tea at the Quayside

To follow in my footsteps and sample the hidden delights of these two walks click the links:

Pennard Cliffs, Southgate, Pwll Du and Bishopston Woods

Lawrenny Woods

If you've enjoyed these walks as much as I did, why not use this blog's 'comment' facility?

A Taste of the Sea at Porthdinllaen

As I approach the village by sea, I can see the crowds in front of the Ty Coch

The picture postcard village of Porthdinllaen is amazing whichever way you approach it.  But by far the best way, is by sea.  And that is how I arrived at Porthdinllaen this afternoon, on my way to join the first Blas y Mor (Taste of the Sea) festival.

The event was organised the National Trust as part of the Llyn Coastal Festival and included seafood cookery demonstrations from local cooks Mary White, Selective Seafoods, Heather Jones, Gegin Grug, Nick Grimes and Russel Smith from the Woodlands Hall Hotel and Mel Thomas, Hafan Hire.

Other activities included beach games, free canoeing trips with Llyn Adventures, face painting and a fascinating exhibition about the area's rich seafaring history, provided by the Nefyn Maritime Museum.

I've visited Porthdinllaen hundreds of times over the years, but I don't think I've ever seen it so full of life.  After catching up with colleagues, family and friends - and sampling some of the cook's dishes - I paddled out to see the new Porthdinllaen Lifeboat, the John D. Spicer, on her mooring out in the bay, before heading for home.

Below are some photos of the event, and a video in Welsh of Coastal Ranger, Laura Jones.

Hundreds pack the beach in front of the the famous Ty Coch Inn

Russel Smith dishes out his tasty Cawl Cranc Llyn - Llyn Crab Soup.

Three happy members of the Llyn Visitor Services Team: Val, Steph and Joan, in front of the Ty Coch

A group of youngsters head off for their first taste of canoeing, with Llyn Adventures 

Ceidwad Arfordirol Llyn, Laura Jones yn siarad am gwyl Blas y Mor

(Video in Welsh only)

The Menai Strait's Other Engineering Wonder

Small but perfectly formed.  Anglesey's hidden hide.

In my first Welsh Coast blog post, made five months ago after an inspirational visit to Glan Faenol with Warden John Whitley, I promised that I would return to share with you more of his handiwork.

Well, today I found that I had an hour to spare in between meetings, so I popped over to take a look at another of his hand-made buildings.  Rather than writing about it, I thought I would post a video of my visit instead.

To take a look at another of John's creations, click here to download a walk.