A Year to Remember

Bob Smith (drink in hand, centre) at the triumphant end of the Trident Trek, one of the events which marked the 50th anniversary of our Coastline Campaign

2015 was a big year for us.  It was the year that we put our wonderful coastline centre stage.

The occasion was the 50th anniversary of the initiative which saved hundreds of miles of our unspoilt coast, including some of Wales' best loved beaches, protected forever for future generations to enjoy. 

The initiative is the Coast Campaign, originally Enterprise Neptune, which has so far helped us protect over a hundred miles of Welsh coast - all through public donations.

Making an Impression

The year got off to a cracking start with a day's celebrations led by Springwatch star Iolo Williams.  The event was held in March, on the anniversary of the acquisition of the place where the Neptune campaign started - Whiteford Burrows on Gower.

The local team pulled out all the stops, with a fantastic programme of walks and talks to show what's been achieved since Whiteford Burrows was acquired.

Iolo Williams, launching our year of coastal celebrations at Whiteford Burrows

Our Gower volounteer team worked with sand artist Marc Treanor to create this huge map, marked with all the sites that have been saved with the Neptune campaign.

Watch the amazing video showing how Marc created the sand art

Walking and Sailing around the edge of Wales

June saw two ambitious sponsored circumnavigations of Wales - on foot and by sail.  The Trident Trek and Sails Around Wales events, both of which were covered extensively in this blog. Follow the links to enjoy tales from these two epic achievements.

The Trident Trek reaches Cardiff Bay - both trident and Welsh dragon held proudly aloft

Laura Hughes takes the helm on a 'commute of a lifetime' with Sails Around Wales skipper, John Whitley, in the Bardsey Sound.

Follow in my wake, starting on Day 1 of Sails Around Wales

A Toast to the Coast

July saw our Big Beach Picnic which gave beachgoers all over Wales a chance to get in the holiday mood and celebrate our coast with a picnic.  Hundreds of people packed their hampers, travel rugs and folding chairs and headed to on of our four events - in Llanbedrog, Marloes, Barafundle and Rhossili.

Sample some of the highlights of the events.

The highlight was a grand concert overlooking the beach at Rhossili beach, with the Morriston Orpheus Male Voice Choir and the Penclawdd Brass Band. 

Crowds gather in the July sunshine to listen to a programme of music at the Big Beach Picnic

Sale of the half century?

The Coast Campaign's latest acquisition, Y Parc, forms the summit plateau of the Great Orme

The cherry on the cake of this celebratory year was the purchase of Y Parc, a farm on the summit of the Great Orme headland.  The farm has been described as 'the missing piece of this internationally-important conservation jigsaw'.  We are now able to help a number of other conservation bodies, including PlantLife, Conwy Council, RSPB and Natural Resources Wales to better safeguard this important nature reserve.

Shifting Shores

The year's activities culminated with an important debate about the future of our coastline.  The 'Shifting Shores - the Next Ten Years' seminar saw policy-makers and coastal stakeholders from all over Wales meeting in Swansea to hear expert talks, to learn from case studies and to discuss priorities for working together to make our coast more resilient to climate change.

Cwm Ivy Gower - the sea wall breaches and 100 acres of farmland is flooded.  Disaster or opportunity?

A new bird hide, overlooking the new salt marsh at Cwm Ivy, funded by our Coast Campaign.  Just one of a range of exiting improvements which have come in the wake of the breaching of the sea wall.

Thank you for reading this small sample of our coastal celebrations in 2015, and I look forward to keeping you in touch with what's happening on the National Trust's Welsh coastline in 2016 and beyond.

Trident Trek Sucessfully Completed

Bob (middle) at the end of his epic 870-mile two-month trek around Wales, handing over the trident to our friends in the South-West of England - ready to continue it's journey.

 In an epic 870-mile relay like no other, the Trident Trek reached its end point at Chepstow on 5 August.

A huge thanks to the hundreds of people who took part and particularly for Bob for carrying Neptune's Trident around the entire Welsh Coast, and to George for coming up with the idea of the Trident and creating it for the Trek.

Bob has raised over £1,000 so far - every penny to go to a special project on the Welsh coast to commemorate the 50th Anniversary of the Neptune Coastline Campaign.  Please show your appreciation for his achievement and help the Welsh coast by making a donation here.

Whilst you decide how much to give, enjoy this slide show - featuring the entire Welsh coast in 2 minutes:





More images and the full Trident Trek story

Watch: Hymns and Arias on the Coast

Thousands of beach-goers showed their love for the coast recently by attending our Big Beach Picnics.  Local teams at four of our most popular coastal places hosted these special events on the 4th of July to celebrate the 50th anniversary of our Coastline Campaign.

At Rhossili, Gower, beachgoers basked in the sun on the headland overlooking one of Britain’s most spectacular beaches as they were entertained by the world-renowned Morriston Orpheus Choir, the Penclawdd Brass Band and other musical performances.  Happy picnickers at Barafundle, Marloes and Llanbedrog beaches were also treated to storytelling, surfing lessons, beach games, fancy dress photography and face painting.

There was no danger of anyone leaving any litter behind.  We teamed up with our friends at Keep Wales Tidy and organised popular two-minute beach cleans.  Event organiser Lowri Roberts said, “Everyone had a great time – and the beach was left cleaner than it was before.”

Enjoy this slideshow of pictures taken during the events or click here

Tales from the Trek #2

I joined Bob today on his 22nd day walking on the Trident Trek around the Welsh Coast.  The train dropped me off at Barmouth where today's leg started.  I soon met Bob and we got started on the first section - a pilgrimage to the National Trust's first property, Dinas Oleu.

Ready to trek.  Me and Bob ready to start.  NT support vehicle to take Bob's tent to tonight's

campsite.

We soon got to Dinas Oleu, and met Vicky and Simon, a young couple who were on the last day of their holiday.  The were very interested in the Trek and took a photo of us at the NT commemorative plaque.

The plaque recording the founding of the NT at its first property, Dinas Oleu, the Fortress of Light

Simon and Vicky - Supporting the Trident Trek

The path then took us over the Mawddach on the famous railway bridge.  We then passed Fairbourne and started the stiff climb up to the Blue Lake quarry.  On the way we met a group of volunteer walk leaders from South Staffordshire Walking for Health.  They'd come on the train for the day to check  out the route of a walk their were planning.

South Staffs Bilbrook Walking for Health volunteers

The Trident makes a great toasting fork..

Lunch

The path took us to the ancient road that leads from Llynnau Cregennan (NT), passing a number of Bronze Age standing stones on it's lonely course over the mountain.  It was a strange feeling to think that people have been walking along this trackway for at least 3 or 4 thousand years.

One of the standing stones along the lonely route over the mountain. (John Pritchard)

On our way down to Llwyngwril, we met locals Carol and Josie, out for an afternoon stroll.  They looked a bit surprised when they saw us, then admitted that one had just said to the other "you'd be lucky if you see two people walking this way in a day".  They obviously didn't expect to meet a pair of mad men wielding a trident.

Carol and Josie

We eventually reached Llwyngwril and found a little shop which served us coffee and Welsh cakes.  We shook hands and I dashed to catch the train back, leaving Bob to continue with the remaining 520 miles.  Of course, we couldn't leave Llwyngwril, before saying hello to Gwril the giant, who made a pretty good impersonation of Neptune.

Gwril the Giant

The Welsh coast needs your help

Bob, our Trident Trek hero asks for your help....

We asked Bob, our Trident minder to explain why we need your help:

"For over 50 years, people from all over Wales and beyond have been helping us to save and look after special places on Wales’ beautiful coast.

"Did you know that as well as saving special coastal places through ownership, our Coastline Campaign also helps us look after the coast, doing important work such as…

• protecting places of priceless historic or archaeological interest
• restoring valuable wildlife habitats
• mending eroded paths

 …all so that you and your family can get more from your visit to the coast.

"Did you know that it takes an average of £3,000 a year to look after one mile of the Welsh coast?
 
"That’s what it takes for our rangers to look after footpaths, wildlife habitats, heritage features and
provide a great welcome.
 
"You can help our coastal conservation work by making a donation now.  Please visit our JustGiving site and give what you can.

"This is what we are fundraising for through the Trident Trek:

£100 to restore five metres of traditional Pembrokeshire flower-rich bank, or produce 100 education packs for local school children.

£25 to enable us to create a metre of  wildlife trail around the flower-rich dunes and meadows at Freshwater West, Pembrokeshire.

£50 to cover the cost of establishing an apple tree in the community heritage garden at the traditional crog loft cottage at Fron Deg, Llyn  

£2,000 to pay for a bird hide at Cwm Ivy, Gower and £100 to pay for a wildlife-spotting  sheet for visitors to use to identify what they see from the hide.

"I asked three of our Rangers to share examples of improvements being made THIS year, thanks to donations into our Coastline Campaign."

 

Tales from the Trek: Confessions of a Trident Minder

Coastal supremo and Trident Minder, Bob Smith, heading for Caernarfon this morning

I caught up with coastal supremo Bob this morning.  He'd just crossed the Menai Bridge, and was heading for the Community Day at Glan Faenol before heading for Caernarfon.

As we strolled along I picked up a few stories about his first 200 miles, which I'd like to share.

What's the experience that sticks in the mind most over the last couple of weeks?Bob: Losing the Trident...We stopped at the Spar shop in Conwy to buy lunch.  Half an hour later when we stopped for our picnic we realised it was missing and had to run back.  We were mightily relieved to find that it was where we left it, leaning against the wall.

What's the most bizarre moment?

Bob: without doubt, it's where my fellow volunteer George suddenly grabbed the trident and headed out to sea at Trearddur Bay on Anglesey to do a passable impression of Neptune.

Neptune rising from the waves. Brrr!

What was the most shocking incident?

Bob: I was walking along a street in Prestatyn when a woman drinking cider took one look at my trident and shouted "Fork Off!", or at least that what I think she said.

Day 13: The Last Mile. Penarth Marina to the Senedd.

This is the final blog post of a 13 day voyage on-board the yacht Capercaillie, made to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Neptune Coastline Campaign in Wales.  

To follow our adventures as we visited the Trust's Neptune coast in Wales, go to our first blog post and follow the links through the days.

Capercaillie is dwarfed amongst the playthings of the conspicuously wealthy, at Penarth Marina

Last night’s late arrival caused us to put off the final step of our round-Wales coastal marathon, the short trip across the Cardiff Bay lagoon to the pontoons in front of our government building, the Senedd.  

We set off through the Penarth Marina lock and soon the familiar landmarks of Cardiff’s political and cosmopolitan tourist centre moved into view: the copper carapace of the Millennium Centre, the red brick Pierhead Building, the white painted Norwegian Church and, of course, the Senedd.  

“I think we may have a problem.” John was scanning the quays with his binoculars on our approach.

It turned out that the visitors’ pontoons had been taken over by performance racing catamarans and official race vessels.  We found a space and cheekily squeezed in amongst a few hundred thousand pounds worth of carbon fibre super-yacht.  Predictably, we were immediately approached by a man in a dayglow jacket and walkie-talkie who pointed to an official-looking notice and stated that the whole area was cordoned off for the duration of the racing event. 

But we had an event to complete too, I argued, and a brief stand-off ensued.  This was a public pier and we’d also been planning our event for over six months, I argued.  Nevertheless, a contest between two slightly disheveled tee-shirted blokes with a 30 year old yacht and a uniform-clad security officer backed by a multimillion-pound sponsored yachting event, there could only be one winner.

We moored cheekily amongst the super yachts before being moved on by security

With our inscrutable adversary watching impatiently over us, John and I cut one of the Sails Around Wales banners off, threw my bags onto the quay and gave each other a manly farewell hug.  I thrust the rolled-up banner under my arm, turned to the officer, who seemed to be at the point of calling for reinforcements, and I asked him to evict me from the pontoons.

On the Senedd steps, Tom, a friendly young man who explained that he’d just completed a survival training course and was heading for a big breakfast, agreed to photograph me holding the banner. Feeling slightly disappointed that John was not able to join me for this last step of our journey around Wales, I smiled for the camera as, over Tom’s shoulder, I spotted Capercaille and its skipper, heading off to prepare for their return journey.  

I thanked Tom, picked up my bags and headed off to find a taxi back to life on terra-firma.

Journey's end.  Sails Around Wales reaches the Senedd

Go to Day 1 to follow the whole voyage

Day 12: A 'rather boisterous' journey: Swansea to Cardiff

Swansea marina - arrow marks Capercaille

For today's last leg of our epic tour of the Welsh coast, there was just John and I on-board Capercaillie.  Like the only other section when we didn't have any colleagues on-board, south Meirionnydd, this section of coast is unjustly devoid of National Trust properties.

Before sailing, we met yesterday's passenger, Kathryn with the long-awaited stop solenoid outside the National Waterfront Museum.  She handed over a bag with four bottles of Gower Gold beer and said, "because you didn't get to see Gower yesterday, I thought you should taste it instead"

Nevertheless, after about an hour into the sail we got great views of the south Gower coast, including Pwlldu Head and Three Cliffs Bay.  We sailed out far into the Bristol Channel to miss the Scarweather and Nash sand banks, which stood out as an menacing line of angry boiling surf to our north-east.

With the wind increasing to Force 6, we clicked in our harnesses as the boat yawed and rode the waves at a cracking pace.  At one point, as the wind was whistling in the rigging, John decided that we'd be safer with the genoa sail out and the mainsail taken down and sent me to walk along the pitching deck to furl the sail.  A couple of times when a big swell caught us, I had to hug the mast at to stop being thrown off.

The exhilarating sail continued in a similar fashion for another 7 hours, past Porthcawl, Nash Point, Barry Island, Penarth and eventually the barrage lock gates at Cardiff.

And so it was that 12 days and 402 miles since leaving Bangor, and having enjoyed the company of 10 adventurous colleagues and having sailed past all 133 National Trust properties in Wales, that John and I celebrated the completion of our circumnavigation with a satisfying "taste of Gower".

Entering the lock gates into the Cardiff Bay lagoon

One valedictory gesture remains, that is to sail across Cardiff bay to the Senedd.  But that will have to wait until tomorrow morning.

Go to Day 13

Day 11: Gower's hidden coast. Tenby to Swansea

Kathryn and John, before our departure from Tenby

Another day, another hard-working NT coastal colleague wishing to join Sails Around Wales and view the coast they care for.  Unfortunately, Katherine, our Gower Ranger, was not in luck.  She joined us for breakfast after a very early start then we headed off into a thick mist.  Soon a fresh wind was made use of by hoisting the sails.  The next few hours sailing called for John's navigation skills as we were sailing blind, with no visual confirmation of his calculations.

As we sailed about 2 miles off Worm's Head, we were joined by a pod of about seven or eight dolphins, which broached, bow-rode and crossed under the boat at speed. These were quite different to the bottlenose dolphins we'd seen earlier in the trip.  They were much smaller, more dainty in appearance and were white underneath.  We initially thought that they were the rare striped dolphin, but later thought that they may have been common dolphins with juveniles.

As we pitched and rode the waves, I was sent below to stow anything loose.

A brief sighting of Port Eynon head confirmed our location and we headed for Mumbles.  The sea became increasingly choppy and Capercaillie was thrown about a bit, but we eventually picked up a mooring in the more sheltered waters of Mumbles.  We deposited Kathryn safely ashore, who was still cheerful despite a less than comfortable trip and not having seen any of the 26 miles of spectacular coastline that she helps look after on Gower.

Adieu, Katherine.  Being rowed ashore in Mumbles

Not wishing to spend the night on a rollercoaster mooring, we headed across the bay to Swansea marina, where the delights of warm showers and washing machines made up for a rather demanding day.

Go to Day 12

Day 10: Puffin & preditor: Solva to Tenby

A rose between two thorns? Today's crew, Amanda

Amanda, our Fundraising Consultant and latest crew member, arrived bright and early at 7am, and we headed out of Solva harbour over St Bride's Bay.  The Solfa coast, Southwood estate and Sheepfields, Littlehaven, three of our properties that flank the bay, faded into the distance as we approached the fearsome Jack Sound.  The presence of increasing numbers of seabirds, busily crisscrossing our route, heralded the proximity of Skomer.  We spotted our first puffin, bobbing on the sea with it's beakfull of sandeels, and soon there were squadrons of them hurtling past, their frantic flight reminding us of over-wound clockwork toys.

Jack Sound, with the Deer Park and Midland Isle

Despite it's reputation, the Sound was smooth, with just the occasional upwellings and swirling eddies tugging at the rudder, hinting at the power of the tide race which would soon be upon us if we didn't keep moving.  We passed Midland Isle, the Trust's only sizable non-tidal island in Wales and rounded the Deer Park into the bay off Marloes Beach with its tidal Gateholm.  Soon St Anne's Head hove into view and I spotted Kete, where a wartime radar station for the tracking of low-flying aircraft was once located.  Crossing Milford Haven's busy shipping lanes we aimed for Freshwater West where we intended heading out to sea to avoid the Castlemartin firing range exclusion zone.

Range safety vessel, Predator comes alongside

But before we could do this, from apparently nowhere appeared the threateningly named Predator, a range safety vessel which requested that we headed three miles offshore due to live firing on the range. As we approached the Stackpole estate, another safety vessel accosted us to make sure we kept our distance.  Eventually we anchored off Stackpole Quay, dropped off Amanda and joined our colleagues, who by happy coincidence were having an evening social kayak and barbeque.

Stackpole colleagues see us back out to Capercaillie

We then headed for Tenby, where we were to meet our next colleague-passenger tomorrow.  This journey took us past Manorbier and Lydstep Head, the Trust's first property in Pembrokeshire, donated in 1936.  We eventually rounded Tenby's St Catherine's Island and moored in the harbour with minutes to spare before the ebbing tide landed us gently on the sand at 10pm.

The bright lights of Tenby, from the harbour

Go to Day 11

Day 9: Shore leave: St David's to Solva

The Solva coast, best experienced on foot.  (c) National Trust/Joe Cornish

Last night's arrival at Solva was a day early, thanks to the extended voyage on Saturday. As we had a new passenger to pick up tomorrow, this meant that we had a day's shore leave today.  The question was, which bit of the Pembrokeshire coast to walk?  South to Newgale or north to St David's?

This conumdrum was resolved by Tony, Solva's friendly harbourmaster as we were paying him for the mooring.  "Get in the van, boys, I'll run you up to St David's."  It seems that when the tide's out, there's little going on down in the harbour, so Tony does a spot of gardening on the side.

We called in at the NT shop at the city centre and had a chat with Cath, the cheerful manager, who was doing what she usually's doing when I see her: chatting to visitors about things to see and do.  After talking about our trip and the mysterious arrival of a flock of red kites in the area (feeding on puffin chicks?) the conversation moved on to Gregory Peck, a tame seagull that has his own twitter account.  This was the signal we needed to get going on our walk back to Solva.

Experiencing the coast whilst sailing has been a bit like moving along an unrolling scroll.  An endlessly moving view, continually revealing itself ahead of you and retreating behind you.  It may be heresy to suggest it in this blog, but this perspective doesn't always show off our coast at its best. To really appreciate our spectacular coast at its most beatiful, you have to get onto it and walk it.

And the coast between Porth Clais - with its small fleet of fishing boats snuggling behind the protective arm of harbour wall - and Solva, must be amongst the most beatiful anywhere.  A sucession of spectacular wildflower-speckled cliffs and sandy bays of clear waters tinted a turquoise of tropical intensity.

Capercaillie on her mooring at Solva

There was nothing tropical in its temperature when I leapt off the boat back in Solva harbour. A spirited swim around the boat was enough to cool me off after the walk in the warm sunshine.  Writing on the boat, as John went in search of a mobile signal, I listened to the early-evening sounds of the harbour. Little motor boats came and went, children played, youths shouted and the Celtic longboat rowing teams pulled past, chatting cheerfully as they rowed.  The other essential part of harbour life at Solva - the Harbour Inn and (yet another) Ship Inn - beckoned, and we enjoyed a meal and pint to celebrate the end of our shore leave.

Go to Day 10

Day 8: A meeting with the bitches. Fishguard to Solva

A blue sky, fair breeze and full sail.  A good time to get the squeezebox out

For once, the mischievous machinations of the tides were in our favour. We were aiming to repeat our smooth transit of the Bardsey Sound with a similar strategy for Ramsey.  That is, to let the tide race-away until it slows, then hop on-board for a smooth ride before it turns and the tidal gate closes again.  And last night's calculations had declared that we had time for a leisurely vegetarian cooked breakfast in Fishguard before weighing the anchor. Having experienced local yachtsman Tim on-board for a second day certainly made crewing much easier.

Site of the shambolic Napoleonic mini-invasion at Carreg Wastad Point

Soon we were rounding Pen Anglas, Carreg Wastad Point and then Strumble Head.  With a fair breeze and blue sky, we sailed past all the other spectacular north Pembrokeshire NT places, such as Garn Fawr, Abermawr, Abereiddi and St David's Head. In about an hour, we were heading inexorably into the jaws of Ramsey sound, surrounded by jagged reefs with ominous names such as the Craig Gafaeliog (grabbing rock), the Horse, the Bitches and the Shoe, we were carried comfortably on the last gasp of the tide race.

Escaping the Ramsey Sound into St Bride's Bay

The expanse of St Bride's Bay opened out before us and with the wind on the beam reach, we had a cracking sail along the Treginnis peninsula to Solva.  Negotiating its twisted approach into calmer waters, we were reminded that to arrive at a secluded fishing village by boat gives you a stronger sense of arrival than by any other means.  After all, it's the act that defines the place and ultimately, it's spirit.  I for one had the words of one of Solva's most famous sons, Mike Stevens, in my head as I approached:  "Mae ysbryd Solfa'n galw nawr"  (Solva's spirit calls me now).

Go to Day 9

Day 7: "Ahoy me haaarties" Aberystwyth to Fishguard

Today's motley crew: David (Volunteer Ranger), Tim (Llanerchaeron Head Gardener),

 Gwen (Ceredigion Ranger),  John and me

When under pressure, John abandons his usual affable tact and switches to skipper mode.  This is the John that burst into the harbourmaster's office as I was arranging the onward postage of the elusive stop-solenoid.  “We’re leaving… NOW!” 

With the tide approaching the point when leaving Aberystwyth ceases to be possible, and shortly before we were about to cast off, our motley crew arrived.  Minutes later we were motoring though the rain into a gloomy Cardigan Bay, with our crew’s high spirits almost drowning out the throb of the engine.

Gwen, giving us a quick lesson in marine ecology

Pirate-inspired amateur-dramatics soon faded away as we started to take a lumpy swell and the rain beat down even harder.  Gwen pointed out a succession wonderful coves and headlands that she and her team of volunteers look after.  Craig yr Adar, Coebal, Cwm Silio, Cwm Tydu, Lochtyn, Penbryn and, finally, after about 4 hours of pitching and rolling, Mwnt.

Gwen and David

By this point the wind had increased to a stiff northerly, the swell had become even more tempestuous and two of the crew had ‘donated their breakfast to Neptune’.  At least, we thought, it will be all over when we round Cardigan Island and head into the Teifi estuary. One glance into the jagged jaws of the estuary made it clear that we would have to press on to Fishguard, another 3 hours of stomach-churning sailing.

Coming ashore at the old harbour at Fishguard

They say that the best cure for seasickness is to sit under a tree; well, a stroll through Fishguard for fish and chips seemed to do the job just as well.  We said our farewells to Gwen and David who were having a lift back home with Alison, Tim’s wife, and headed back to Capercaille.  

Not for the first time in this trip, Capercaille started hammering on the bottom as the tide reached full ebb, a serious inconvenience that would make sleep impossible.  This necessitated a quick repositioning to an anchorage, which returned the boat to a more soporific cradle-rocking movement.

John and Tim going ashore for re-fuelling

Go to Day 8